South West Coast Paths UK

South West Coast Paths

The SWCP

SWCP = South West Coast Path
ECP = England Coast Path

1999:
SWCP Minehead to Barnstaple

2000:
SWCP Barnstaple to Newquay

2001:
SWCP Newquay to Falmouth

2002:
SWCP Falmouth to Plymouth

2003:
SWCP Plymouth to Lyme Regis

2004:
SWCP Lyme Regis to South Haven Point

2022:
SWCP in reverse South Haven Point to Lyme Regis

2023:
SWCP in reverse Lyme Regis to Plymouth

2024:
ECP Hampshire to South Haven Point

2025:
ECP Weston-Super-Mare to Minehead

This page is a mixture of styles and photograph formats as they were first produced at the time of the walks.

SWCP Minehead to Barnstaple 1999

Passing through: Porlock, Lynton, Lynmouth, Combe Martin, Ilfracombe, Morteho, Woolacombe, Croyde, Saunton, and Braunton.

Olympus XA Scanner

I took a tent, a sleeping bag and an inflatable sleeping mat to give me more flexibility over where to stop if I could not find or chose not to stay in accommodation overnight.

I made notes of mileages, weather, accommodation and anything else of interest in the margins of the SWCP guide books that I took.

The photos for this section were taken with an Olympus XA film camera using Agfachrome 200 slide film and scanned for this website on a Nikon LS-50 ED negative and slide film scanner.


Castle Rock just beyond Lynmouth.	View from East Cleeve.


On the Great Hangman above Combe Martin.	Saunton Sands with Braunton Burrows.

At Barnstaple I had a wander around the town, as I had lived there for a time when I was a teenager. I had a pint in the Three Tuns for old times sake then caught a train home. I was working then and had to be back at work on Monday.

Minehead to Barnstaple: About 68 miles walked. 5 days.

Best:
Arriving at Ilfracombe at 1pm on Carnival day and deciding to stop, get a room, dry out, chill out, and later have a few beers and watch the fun.
Worst:
Miles of damp woods with no views, Porlock to Foreland Point. Nice if you love woodlands though.

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SWCP Barnstaple to Newquay 2000

Passing through: Instow, Bideford, Apledore, Westward Ho!, Clovelly, Hartland Quay, Bude, Widemouth Bay, Cracklinton Haven, Boscastle, Tintagel, Port Gaverne, Port Isaac, Port Quin, Polzealth, Trebetherick, Rock, (ferry).

When walking from Minehead to Barnstable last year I overloaded myself with camping gear, so for this year I pre-booked my accommodation in advance. My rucksack was much lighter and had nothing strapped to it.

I was still using the same Olympus mju II film camera.


Clovelly harbour through the trees.	Cliffs near Hartland.


Boscastle Harbour.	Padstow Harbour.

Barnstaple to Newquay. About 125 miles walked. 7 days.
Total so far 192 miles. 12 days.

I ended this section at Newquay because it had a railway station. Back to work on Monday.

Notable: Mrs Dann's B&B.
After a hard 20 mile walk from Tintagel, my B&B in Padstow town centre took some time to find. There was a notice on the door: "Ring the bell and wait at least two minutes. Don't ring again. My feet won't get there any quicker". Another notice said: "No en-suite rooms. No TV in the rooms. No single rooms - you will have to pay extra".
When I told Mrs Dann that I wanted to leave at 7 am the next morning, she told me that I was "leaving too early for breakfast" and that I "still had to pay full price". I asked about a packed lunch instead but she "didn't do packed lunches". I was worn out and needed to rest, so I paid up.

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SWCP Newquay to Falmouth 2001

Passing through: Perranporth, St Agnes, Porthtowan, Portreath, Hayle, Carbis Bay, St Ives, Sennen Cove, Porthcurno, Mousehole, Newlyn, Penzance, Marazion, Porthleven, Mullion Cove, Lizard Point, Cadgwith, Coverack, Helford, (ferry).

Olympus mju

I pre-booked my accommodation for this section.

The photos for this section were taken with an Olympus mju II camera using Agfachrome 200 slide film and scanned for this website on a Nikon LS-50 ED.


Perran Beach, Perranporth.	Ruins of tin mines.


Approaching St Ives.	Lands End.


Leaving Mullion Harbour.	Approaching Lizard Point.

Newquay to Falmouth: About 150 miles walked. 10 days.
Total so far: 341 miles. 22 days.

Best: My cosy accommodation in a little cabin next to a stream at Lamorna Cove.

Worst: I stopped for the night at Coverack and went into the bar of the Paris Hotel where I saw the pictures of the destruction of the Twin Towers on the television. It was September 11th.

Next day, shortly after I had set out, I decided to abandon my walk. I couldn't get those pictures out of my head. I had intended to reach Plymouth but I knew that I wouldn't enjoy the walk now. I walked to Falmouth and took the next train home.

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SWCP Falmouth to Plymouth 2002

Passing through: (ferry), St Mawes, (ferry), Mevagissey, St Austel, Par, Fowey, (ferry), Polperro, Looe, Portwrinkle, Cremyll, (ferry).

I pre-booked my accommodation again for this section.

I was still using the same Olympus mju II film camera.


Falmouth to St Mawes ferry.	Porthcurnick Beach from Pednaven.


Mevagissey.	Lantic Bay.


Polperro.	Cremyll ferry to Plymouth.

Falmouth to Plymouth: About 74 miles walked. 5 days.
Total so far: 415 miles. 27 days.

Best: Meeting up with Bob Williams, a fellow lone walker, and chatting in the pub several evenings at stops along the way.
Worst: Walking the dusty paths with high rusty fences weaving between abandoned buildings at Par.

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SWCP Plymouth to Lyme Regis 2003

Passing through: (ferry), Mountbatten, Wembury, (ferry), (wading*), Bigbury on Sea, Salcombe, Torcross, Stoke Fleming, Dartmouth, (ferry), Kingswear, Brixham, Goorington, Paignton, Torquay, Teignmouth, Dawlish, Starcross, (ferry), Exmouth, Budleigh Salterton, Sidmouth, Beer and Seaton.
* Wading the River Erme at low tide only.

I decided not to pre-book any accommodation for this section. During the last few sections there were several times when I had to keep going to get to my accommodation and other times when I wanted to keep going but had to stop because I had got there. This time I took a light sleeping bag and a bivvy bag in case I could not find anywhere to stay, or did not want to sleep indoors.

I was still using the same film camera.


Aproaching Bigbury-on-Sea.	Aproaching Start Point.


Torcross.	Teignmouth Ferry.


The Jurassic Coast.	Breakfast in Lyme Regis.

Plymouth to Lyme Regis: About 122 miles walked. 10 days.
Total so far: 537 miles. 37 days.

Bests: Sleeping out under the stars and having breakfast next day in Lyme Regis.
Worst: Having to wade thigh deep across the Erme Estuary in the dark at low tide, not reaching the opposite bank in the right place and climbing a steep muddy stinging nettled bank with no boots or socks on.

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SWCP Lyme Regis to South Haven Point 2004

Passing through: Charmouth, Seatown, West Bay, Abbotsbury, Weymouth, Osmington Mills, Durdle Dor, Swanage and Studland.

Nikon 775

I didn't need accommodation for this section because I had retired and moved to West Dorset at the end of 2003. So I was able to take buses to and from the start and finish points.

The photographs for this section were taken on a Nikon Coolpix 775 digital camera.


Approaching Golden Cap.	West Bay.


Durdle Dor.	Swanage.


Old Harry Rocks.	South Haven Point.

Lyme Regis to South Haven Point: About 79 miles walked. 5 days.

Best: Everything.
Worst: Nothing.

Total: Minehead to South Haven Point: 613 miles. 42 days.

Only 613 miles? Yes. The Isle of Portland was not part of the SWCP when I started out, but it was by the time I reached the end, so I walked it later and added 17 miles and 1 day to my totals.

Final total: 630 miles. 43 days.

Portland


Chesil Beach and causway.	Portland Bill.

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SWCP in reverse. Dorset, South Haven Point to Lyme Regis, 2022.

The Dorset Coast

Day 1: South Haven Point to Langton Maltravers

Day 2: Langton Maltravers to Kimmeridge

Day 3: Kimmeridge to Lulworth

Day 4: Lulworth to Weymouth

Day 5: Round the Isle of Portland

Day 6: Weymouth to Abotsbury

Day 7: Abotsbury to West Bay

Day 8: West Bay to Lyme Regis

Fujifilm X100V

Walking in the opposite direction to my first walk in 1999 - 2004.

The photos for the following sections were taken on a Fujifilm X100V which has a fixed 23mm f2 medium wide-angle lens.

Day 1 - SWCP South Haven Point to Langton Maltravers

The end of the journey for most SWCP walkers is here at South Haven Point, as the most popular direction to walk the whole path is from Minehead to here. Having walked the SWCP in the normal direction several years ago I decided to walk it in the reverse direction. It began with an easy walk on the damp sand just above the waterline to Redend Point at Studland. At Studland I rested in the beer garden of the Banks Arms which overlooks the sea.

Old Harry Rocks

Much refreshed, I continued out on the headland to Old Harry Rocks. These chalk stacks mark the eastern end of the 95 mile-long Jurassic Coast stretching to Exmouth in Devon.

Swanage Bay

The view of Swanage from Ballard Down. I missed the path down and walked half a mile too far inland before backtracking. In Swanage I had a pint in the White Horse Inn because the other pubs were too hot and busy. Much refreshed I continued along the coast to Dancing Ledge, where the sea washes over the rock ledge and bobs about as if dancing. Here I diverted inland to Langton Maltravers to catch a bus back to my accommodation.

End of day 1. About 11 Miles walked today. It was hot day with a few clouds now and then, including a short downpour just as I headed inland for the bus stop at Langton Maltravers. This turned out to be the only time that I got wet on my walk along the Dorset coast.

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Day 2 - SWCP Langton Maltravers to Kimmeridge.

On the way to Chapman's Pool

After a short walk from Langton Maltravers back to the coast I came to St Aldhelm's Head where the terrain began to get more challenging. I know that steps are necessary on very steep slopes but my knees really don't like them any more!

Almost at Kimmeridge

Now approaching Kimmeridge. The Isle of Portland is visible on the distant horizon. Kimmeridge is a small village a short walk inland from the beach. It had minimal services, apart from a very nice restaurant. It had no bus service and no mobile phone coverage either. There was a phone box, which didn't take cash, and wouldn't accept my credit card, but a very nice lady in the restaurant kindly called the local KBay Taxi for me, which took me back to my accommodation.

End of day 2. About 10 miles walked today. Hot.

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Day 3 - SWCP Kimmeridge to Lulworth

The Lulworth Range Warning Notice.

The road from Kimmeridge village to the beach is a toll road for vehicles but I was on foot. From the beach, the path going west first passes through the Army firing range, with warning notices at the entry point. Further on there was a "Do not leave the path" and "Do not pick anything up" notice. From here to Lulworth village the path is only open certain weekends and weekdays per year. For more information Google 'Lulworth Range access times' and choose the .gov.uk site.

Brandy Bay

Hard work but simply beautiful.

I'm not sure where this is. Possibly Rings Hill.

Nearly at Lulworth now.

Lulworth Cove

The village of West Lulworth was very busy and it was still a very hot day, so as I was passing the Lulworth Cove Inn I stopped for a pint in the beer garden. As I live in West Dorset I was able to catch a bus to Weymouth and then to Bridport and go home for the night.

End of day 3. Only 8 miles walked today, but it was a severe section, and it was very hot!

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Day 4 - SWCP Lulworth to Weymouth

Durdle Dor

After two bus rides to get back to Lulworth I walked to Durdle Dor. There was almost no one around. It was going to be another hot day. I seem to have chosen to walk the coast of Dorset during a heat-wave.

Another hill.

Weymouth is now on the horizon. Notice the well-trodden paths on the hill ahead.

Looking back

I often stop and turn around to see if I have missed anything. Like this view back to Durdle Dor.

When out walking, always close the gate behind you.

Ringstead Bay

Just before Osmington Mills the cliffs drop away and the going gets easier. Getting hot now though.

Osmington Mills

The path goes right through the garden of the The Smugglers Inn. There was a shady table waiting for me in the beer garden.

Weymouth Beach

After my cool pint it was an easy 5 mile walk to Weymouth town centre, about half of it being on the promenade along the beach.

End of day 4. About 13 miles walked today. It was a hot day with a few clouds now and then.

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Day 5 - SWCP From Weymouth round the Isle of Portland

Portland

From Weymouth town centre it is a 2.5 mile walk to the start of the causeway to Portland. There is a pavement alongside the road on the causeway but it is more pleasant to walk along the tracks through the scrub and be away from the noisy road.

At the top of the Merchant's Incline

This is the view from the top of the Merchant's Incline, an abandoned tramway that used to take the limestone rock from the quarries down to the docks below. This view is looking back at Chesil Beach curving away into the distance, with the causeway in front of it and the start of Weymouth town at the top right of the picture.

The under-cliff

After passing the HM Prison and the Young Offender Institution the path drops down to the under-cliff on the east side of Portland. There was no wind down there so I was getting very hot in the blazing sun. Here I saw a man hurrying ahead of me carrying a what appeared to be a large mattress? Later I saw some climbers practicing on low rocks, with mattresses on the ground below them. Mystery solved.

Portland Bill

Approaching the lighthouse at Portland Bill. Still very hot. Here there is a restaurant and a snack bar and in the large car park nearby there are toilets. I cooled down with a pint under an umbrella at the Pulpit Inn.

West Cliff

Continuing my clockwise walk around the edge of Portland, the walk along the cliff top on the west side of the island was more relaxing and there was a cool breeze blowing. There were a couple of diversions where the path had partly collapsed, one of which sent the path through Tout Quarry. It is worth a detour anyway to look at the many contemporary rock carvings there.

Chiswell

From here I was about to make the steep descent to the beach and the Cove House Inn, but when I got there it was packed and there was no shade outside so I walked on to the Little Ship Inn where I sat outside in the shade with a pint before walking back along the causeway to the mainland.

End of day 5. 16 miles walked today. A hot day but there was a cool breeze on the west facing cliffs and when walking back along the causeway.

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Day 6 - SWCP Weymouth to Abbotsbury

The Fleet

Continuing my walk from the Weymouth end of the Portland causeway, the path passes alongside the landward side of the Fleet. The fleet is a long lagoon almost completely cut off from the sea by Chesil Beach, which at this point is a huge bank of pebbles. This photo was taken looking back along the Fleet, with the back of Chesil Beach on the right, the causeway across the end and Portland beyond.

The Fleet

This view is looking forward along the Fleet, with the back of Chesil beach on the left and Lyme Bay behind it on the left horizon. It was very hot, so I stopped off at the Moonfleet Manor Hotel for a pint. I sat under an umbrella on the patio and was served with a bottle of cold beer. They didn't serve pints; it was too posh!

St Catherine's Chapel

After about 7 miles along the shore of the Fleet the path diverts inland towards Abbotsbury and passes St Catherine's Chapel high on the hill. Occasional services are held here throughout the year.

End of day 6. Ending at Abbotsbury. About 12 miles walked today. A hot day with very little cloud.

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Day 7 - SWCP Abbotsbury to West Bay

Starting from Abbotsbury the path heads back to the coast and Chesil Beach. The pebbles are now smaller than those at the Portland end.

Chesil Beach

Walking on the pebbles is hard going until the path diverts into the adjoining fields and along the back of the beach. This is sign-posted as the 'Summer route'. At other times the fields can be too marshy and then it is necessary to keep to the beach.

Burton Bradstock

Here I am about to descend the cliffs to Hive Beach at Burton Bradstock. The cafe/restaurant here is open all-year-round. From here to West Bay there is a spectacular line of cliffs that glow in the early morning and evening sun. There are regular cliff falls along this stretch of the coast making the cliffs too dangerous to walk under or to walk along the top near the edge. At a very low tide it is possible to walk along the beach away from the cliffs but sometimes a cliff fall blocks the beach right up to the water's edge and into the sea. It is dangerous to attempt to climb over any part of the fall. It produces a very sticky mud, often with a hard crust, and it is impossible to escape from this mud if you get bogged down.

Burton Freshwater

After leaving the beach at Burton Bradstock, by walking through the large car park and across a cliff-top field, there is the start of a road that goes inland to the village of Burton Bradstock, where there are two pubs. But I continued on along the cliff top path to Burton Freshwater where there is a large static and touring caravan park. Here the path diverts inland a short way to a small bridge that crosses the River Bride.

East Cliffs West Bay

The tide was going out but walking along the beach was dangerous as it would mean getting too close to the unstable cliff face. The path continues along the cliff-top but keeps well away from the edge.

West Bay, also known as Bridport Harbour, is a small coastal community with a large static-caravan park. It also has harbour-side kiosks selling food, including fish & chips and ice-cream. I followed the footpath through the caravan park to Bridport which is almost 2 miles inland, where I had a pint in the The Pursuit of Hoppiness before catching a bus home.

End of day 7. About 9 miles walked today. A hot day to start with but later the clouds helped to cool it a little.

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Day 8 - SWCP West Bay to Lyme Regis

Eype Mouth

Back to West Bay the next day, the path continues up onto the cliffs then down again to Eype Mouth beach.

There have been large land slips on the section between West Bay and Lyme Regis. This recent land slip was between Eype and Thorncombe Beacon. Notice the brown grass due to the long dry-spell.

Thorncombe Beacon.

Starting the climb up to Thorncombe Beacon. The beacon, a fire basket on a pole, is just visible in the photo.

Seatown

Looking down the steep descent to Seatown and the Anchor Inn next to the beach. Golden Cap is beyond. At Seatown it is a short walk inland on the road to reach the path to Golden cap. The old path along the headland is no longer useable due to land slips.

View from Golden Cap

A view of Charmouth ahead and Lyme Regis beyond.

Charmouth

The inland diversion via Stonebarrow Hill between Golden Cap and Charmouth is no longer necessary as a section closer to the coast is now in use. At Charmouth there is still an inland diversion to Lyme Regis, partly along roads. This was in operation when I last walked through in the other direction about 17 years ago.

Lyme Regis. Photo taken from The Cobb.

From Charmouth, Lyme Regis is approached from the landward side with no chance of a nice view of the town to photograph. I had time to spare before catching a bus to Bridport and then home, so I had a pint in the Naval Volunteer first.

End of day 8. About 10 miles walked today.

That's a total of 89 miles on the Dorset SWCP.

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SWCP in reverse East and South Devon 2023.

The East and South Devon Coast

Day 1: Lyme Regis to Beer

Day 2: Beer to Sidmouth

Day 3: Sidmouth to Exmouth

Day 4: Exmouth to Teignmouth

Day 5: Teignmouth to Babbacombe

Day 6: Babbacombe to Brixham

Day 7: Brixham to Dartmouth

Day 8: Dartmouth to Salcombe

Day 9: Salcombe to River Erme

Day 10: River Erme to Plymouth

Fujifilm X100V

The photos for these sections were taken on a Fujifilm X100V which has a fixed 23mm f2 medium wide-angle lens.

Day 1 - SWCP in reverse Lyme Regis to Beer

Lyme Regis. Early morning.

Lyme Regis is in Dorset but after half a mile the path enters Devon. The path leaves the car park next to the Cob and rises up to the undercliff. This is a long strip of land that has slumped and lies between the real cliffs above and the sea cliffs below. There is no access up or down from the path.

The undercliff

After about half-mile into Devon the path enters the undercliff woodland and continues through the trees for several miles. The sound of the sea is mixed with the sounds of the woodland and there are glimpses of the sea now and then. I seem to have chosen another hot day to start my trek but in the woodland it was much cooler.

The golf club

The path twists and turns up and down until the undercliff is no more and rises up onto the cliff before crossing the golf course and dropping down (past the club house, visitors welcome) to sea level at Seaton. I made a visit but only for water.

Seaton

At Seaton I had a pint in the Eyre Court Hotel. Nice cool bar and shady beer garden. Then, because the tide was out, I was able continue out of town and along the pebble beach and avoid the inland diversion caused by a collapsed road and footpath, then I climbed up onto the cliffs, visible in the centre of the above photo, before descending into Beer.

Beer

I arrived in beer mid afternoon after walking about 8.5 miles. The going was not very strenuous but I was worn out. Unlike my trek through Dorset I was now carrying a tent, inflatable mattress, sleeping bag and other camping gear as I intending to stay at campsites whenever possible to save on the cost of accommodation. My rucksack now weighed about 12 kilos. I decided to stop for the night at the camp site on Beer Head. I walked beyond the town to the campsite, pitched the tent, had a refreshing shower and returned to the town for a pint and a snack at the Anchor Inn. I hoped that I would soon get used to carrying the extra weight.

End of day 1. About 9 miles walked today.

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Day 2 - SWCP Beer to Sidmouth.

Branscombe Mouth

I decided to walk to Branscombe before having breakfast. I had bought a large pasty before I left Beer and I stopped at Branscombe Mouth and ate it at one of the picnic tables on the beach. Then I ascended through the woodland and onto the cliff top, where the going was easy for a time, but it didn't last.

Salcombe Regis

Then came two very steep descents and ascents at Weston Mouth and Salcombe Regis. There was light cloud and a breeze but I found it hard going.

Sidmouth

Then came one last steep descent into Sidmouth. I was worn out by then so I found accommodation for the night. My knees and hips were complaining and my shoulders were sore from the pack straps but mainly I had run out of energy again. A shower, fish and chips and a pint cheered me up. I even managed a stroll around the town afterwards.

End of day 2. About 9 miles walked today.

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Day 3 - SWCP Sidmouth to Exmouth

High Peak

After a 'full English' at Sidmouth there was some strenuous walking followed by some moderate walking according to the Reverse Guide. I could see that the land was flatter in the distance. It was becoming another hot day with little cloud and but there was a cool breeze. The path was very narrow in places with high hedges on both sides. Being sheltered from the cool wind by the hedges it was very hot and moist and the views were restricted.

Ladram Bay

At the Ladram Bay holiday caravan and campsite I topped up with water.

Budleigh Salterton

The path to Budleigh Salterton was much easier. I walked into the town and had a snack and a pint at The Feathers

Exmouth beach. Town end.

The going to Exmouth was pleasant but it was very hot. When I got there, beach was busy with people swimming, paddle boarding, playing volley ball and barbecuing. I was glad to have arrived. But I hadn't. I had forgotten just how long the beach was. So I trudged on in the heat for another mile and a half to reach the town and found some accommodation. I had an early night.

End of day 3. About 13 miles walked today.

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Day 4 - SWCP Exmouth to Teignmouth

Looking back to Exmouth

The first ferry across the River Exe from Exmouth to Starcross was at 10:40 so I had time to wander around the town. I found a popular cafe in the docks and had a bacon sandwich and a drink, then I just sat on a bench nearby for an hour watching the people and the boats and waited for the ferry.

Dawlish to Teignmouth walkway.

It was an easy walk along footpaths from Starcross to Dawlish Warren, where I had a lunchtime snack and a pint in the Silly Goose before joining the walkway that runs between the beach and the railway line towards Dawlish.

Waiting for 2 o'clock.

I had been told by the barman at the Silly Goose that at 2 0'clock the were going to officially open the final part of the new walkway that ran along the new sea defences and the railway line at Dawlish. So I took my time but still arrive half an hour before the opening. I could have taken the detour up through the town but I decided to wait. There were a few people standing near the barrier and a few more people arrived while I was waiting. Most of them seemed to have been aware of what was happening until they were told by the men at the barrier.
In the distance I could see the official opening taking place (see photo) and just before 2 o'clock the barriers were removed and we were allowed to move forward. By the time that we got to the other end, the opening had been performed and a large crowd of people was surging forward towards us. I continued to walk on and I seemed to have been the first walker heading south along the new officially opened section. After leaving the railway walkway at Dawlish the route became a little more strenuous before rejoining the railway walkway again for the last 1.5 miles into Teignmouth. It was very hot but a cool wind was blowing.

End of day 4. About 8 miles walked today.

As I walked I had decided that I was carrying more weight in my rucksack than I could comfortably carry. Either I wasn't as fit as I thought, or my age was catching up on me. So I took the next train home to Dorset and lightened my pack. Because the weather was supposed to stay fine I discarded the tent along with my heavy bad-weather clothes and my spare clothes. I rested for a few days and booked a few B and Bs for the first part of the onward journey. I had managed to reduced my pack from 12Kg to about 8Kg, which included a light sleeping bag and a bivvy bag.

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Day 5 - SWCP Teignmouth to Babbacombe

The Teignmouth to Shaldon Ferry

Returning to Teignmouth by train I took the ferry across the River Teign to Shaldon. It was, once again, hot. The walk to Babbacombe was strenuous but there was plenty of shade from the trees and hedges along the route. I stopped at the Thatched Tavern at Maidencombe for a pint and a top-up of my water bottle.

The end of Oddicombe Beach

At Babbacombe there was a long descent to Oddicombe Beach followed immediately by a steep ascent to where my B and B was. After a shower I had time to walk part of tomorrows route into Torbay before returning to Babbacombe for a pint and a meal at the Babbacombe Inn, which was on the cliff top near my B and B.

End of day 5. About 8 miles walked to get to Babbacombe plus a couple more towards Torquay marina.

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Day 6 - SWCP Babbacombe to Brixham

Early morning. Torbay.

Next day I made an early start and was able to take a short cut through the town as I had already walked part of the route beforehand. I rejoined the path at the marina on the Torquay seafront.

Paignton

At Paignton I walked into the town to buy some large safety pins. I always take two pairs of walking socks and I had washed one pair the night before at the B and B. But they were still wet the next morning so I hung them on my rucksack to dry and nearly lost one as I walked. Unfortunately I had to wait until 10am for the shop to open. I bought two large kilt pins and hung the damp socks on my rucksack.

Paignton to Kingswear Heritage Line

As I walked into Goodrington Sands with my socks swinging in the breeze a Kingswear to Paignton Heritage Railway steam train passed by on its way to Paignton. Later, when I was walking right alongside the line it passed by again on its way back to Kingsbridge. I was glad that I had been delayed at Paignton as I was at a perfect spot to take my photo.

Arriving at Brixham

Due to my early start and it being a moderately easy walk I arrive in Brixham mid afternoon. It was a very hot day but there was a cool wind blowing so after a brief rest I continued on along the coast to Berry Head and then came back to my B and B via St Mary's Bay. That evening I walked back into town and had a meal and a pint or two at the Old Market House on the quay.

End of day 6. About 14 miles walked today.

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Day 7 - SWCP Brixham to Dartmouth

Scabbacombe Head

As I had walked part of this section through Brixham the day before I rejoined the path at St Mary's Bay. It was hard going at Man Sands and Scabbacombe and it was another hot day but there was a cold wind blowing on the exposed cliff tops and even more wind was blowing up the valleys between them.

Forward Point

Just before the path rounded the point and continued along the river Dart I visited the ruins of the World War II defences at Forward Point. Start point is visible in the distance on the extreme left of the photo. It had been a hot day so far but the cold winds had helped to cool me a little.

The Kingsbridge - Dartmouth Ferries

After Forward point the path passed through the cooler and shady Warren Woods, then it descended on a narrow road, giving glimpses of Dartmouth between the many expensive housed that were crammed along the steep bank of the river. I crossed to Dartmouth on the ferry and went straight to The Crab, which has an outdoor seating area on the quay, and sat under an umbrella with a pint of lager and a snack until I had cooled down. I had booked into the Seven Stars where, after a shower and a wander around the town, I later returned to and had a pint and a nice meal.

End of day 7. About 10 miles walked today.

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Day 8 - SWCP Dartmouth to Salcombe

Blackpool Sands

I left early as breakfast wasn't included in my booking. I hoped hope that it would be cooler than the last few days, and it was. It was cloudy with a cold easterly wind. The first stretch was strenuous so I soon warmed up enough to walk in a polo shirt, but as the going got easier I began to speed up to keep warm. I could have put my fleece back on instead but I wanted to see if I could improve on my mileage. My daily mileage had been quite low so far, partly because I was stopping frequently to take more interest in my surroundings than I did on my previous SWCP walk twenty years ago but mostly because I was walking more slowly than I did then. I stopped at the Blackpool Sands beach cafe for coffee and breakfast.

Slapton Sands with Torcross at the far end.

By midday I had passed Slapton Ley Nature Reserve and arrive at Torcross village. After topping up with water I kept going. The cloud had lifted and it was getting hot again so I stopped at The Cricket Inn in Beesands for a pint and a snack.

Narrow and rocky.

The going was getting strenuous and parts of the path were narrow and very rocky. Just before Prawle point a chap who engaged me in conversation told me that Salcome was not far, that there was spectacular scenery, and that the difficult bit was behind me. I shouldn't have listened to him. I was already tired and thinking of camping for the night but then I decided to keep going. After Prawle Point lookout station the scenery was certainly spectacular but the path continued to be difficult and slow until the final descent to East Portlemouth. But by then it was late and I was sure that the ferry across to Dartmouth would have stopped running. I arrived in the dark just before 10 o'clock and was pleased to see the little ferry heading across the river towards me. The ferryman told me that he had been booked to take two passengers back to Dartmouth at 10 o'clock so I joined them. I could not find accommodation in Salcombe so I spent the night in my bivvy bag in a discrete but not very comfortable location.

End of day 8. 23 miles walked today. My best so far.

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Day 9 - SWCP Salcombe to the River Erme.

Sunrise as I left Salcombe

I made a 4am start and decided to get to the River Erme, where there is no ferry but where it was safe to wade across the river one hour either side of low tide. This would avoid an 8 mile detour off the coast path and along narrow roads. Low tide was to be around 3:30 pm so I had to be there by 4:30 pm at the latest.

Between Bolt Head and Bolt Tail.

The scenery between Bolt Head and Bolt Tail was spectacular but the going was strenuous. There was also a very strong wind blowing from the east which constantly tried to push me towards the edge of the cliffs. It was actually difficult to walk in a straight line during the frequent strong gusts. I was feeling the wind-chill so I put my fleece on and zipped it up to the neck.

Hope Cove.

After 8 miles I arrived at Hope Cove, where I realised that I was not going to get to the river Erme in time to wade across that afternoon as I still had 9 miles to go. The lack of a good nights sleep and the constant battle with the wind had worn me down. I bought some supplies in Hope Cove and walked on. There was a ferry crossing at Bantham Sands next but this did not operate between 12noon and 2pm and I would not get there before 12 so there was no need to hurry. I found a wind-free spot just off the path and had a wonderful snooze in the sun.

Heading for Bantham. Burgh Island in the distance.

The walking was easier from then on apart from the strong gusts of wind that continued to push me around on the elevated parts. I reached the ferry at 1:30pm so I had time for a pint and a snack in the Sloop Inn before crossing.

After Bantham

The walking was classed as "moderate" by the guide but there were a few steep climbs and descents. I arrived at the beach marked as the best spot to wade the river Erme but it was well past low tide. I settled down on the beach to enjoy the evening, intending to sleep nearby later and wake at 4am for the 4:30am low tide.
A little while later I met some students who had a car and was able to get a lift with them to the other side of the river. I gave them some cash for petrol as I was happy not to have to wade the river. I remembered the time that I waded across in the opposite direction about 20 years ago. That had been a 4am low tide. But I missed my way as I crossed, up to my knees in water, and didn't get to this beach but ended up a little farther down river where I had to scramble up a steep bank, through dense undergrowth and over a fence in the dim light to find the path again.

End of day 9. A little over 17 miles walked today.

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Day 10 - SWCP River Erme to Plymouth

Early morning Meadowsfoot Beach

I slept on a grassy area at the back of Meadowsfoot Beach. I sat on the beach at about 5am and ate half a packet of ginger biscuits for breakfast while watching the sky lighten. It was cool and cloudy. I decided to head for Plymouth which was 18 miles away and classed as "strenuous becoming easy" to Wembury, where there was a ferry crossing to Warren Point, then it was "easy" to Mount Batten, where there was a second ferry crossing into Plymouth. This was as far as I wanted to go as it was as the end of the South Devon coast section.

Signpost at Wembury Beach

At Wembury beach I stopped to refill my water bottle and had a large coffee and a very large bacon bap at the beach cafe. I checked the train times for Plymouth and bought a ticket valid for travel on that day using the GWR app and then carried on walking. It was then that my right knee gave out and would no longer carry my full weight, so I had to make constant use of my walking pole. It was fine on level ground but going uphill and downhill was painful and climbing and descending steps was worse. I took two Ibuprofen tablets and took comfort in the fact that the guide had classed this section as "easy".

Fort Bovisand ahead and Plymouth beyond

This "easy" section turned out not to be so easy for me. After Bovisan Bay I completely forgot about taking any more photos. There were steep, narrow, overgrown steps and paths then a climb up to Brownhill Battery above Fort Bovisand and down again. I continued to follow the SWCP signs which then sent me down into a dense woodland where the path twisted and turned up and down before sending me down flights of slippery wooden steps that descended deeper into the woodland. My knee gave out after descending the first two flights and there were more below, so I had a look at the contour lines on my map, which showed me that I would have to ascend again a little further on. So instead, I eased myself back up to the start of the steps to where I had seen a "SWCP Alternative Route" sign pointing up a short slope. I continued upwards and came to a road that headed down towards Mount Batten. Further down the hill I was able, with the help of a local lady, to find and join path again.

By then my knee was getting really painful and as I neared the ferry at Mout Batten I spotted a bus shelter. According to the timetable there was a bus due in ten minutes that went right past the railway station.
From the bus stop I looked at the long, baking hot road where I thought the ferry point was and checked the ferry times on my iphone. I calculated that I might just get there before it sailed, or then again I might not, depending on how fast I could hobble. So I caught the bus, which then gave me a tour of the suburbs before it reached the station. With the help of a couple more Ibuprofen tablets I had a pleasant train journey home.
Later I found out that I was heading for the wrong place for the ferry anyway.

End of day 10. A little over 17 miles walked today - 5 of them hobbling along!

That's a Total of 123 miles along the East and South Devon coast and a total of 219 miles from South Haven Point. The Cornwall coast is next but that will be later in the year if my knee will allow me.

This walk through Dorset and Devon was mostly done during the hottest parts of 2022 and 2023 and I only needed my wet weather gear for 10 minutes at the end of the first day as I walked to the bus stop at Langton Maltravers. I would rather have walked in slightly cooler conditions but I'm not complaining.

back to start of Devon in reverse

Next

2024. I decided not to carry on and walk the SWCP around the Cornish coast again. My knee was just not able to cope with walking over severe terrain. I decided instead that my next walk would be the 87 mile Tamara Coast to Coast Way that roughly follows the river Tamar and the Devon/Cornwall border along the Tamar Valley from Plymouth to the source of the Tamar and then on to the North Cornwall coast where it meets the Devon Coast. Looking at the route it was obviously going to be an easier walk than the rugged terrain of the Cornish coast path. I remember it well from the last time.

England Coast Path - Hampshire border to South Haven Point

Fujifilm X-E3

After walking most of the Dorset coast on the SWCP on two occasions I decided to walk what was left. This being the 18 miles from the Hampshire/Dorset border to Sandbanks and the ferry to South Haven Point.

The photos for this walk were taken on a Fujifilm X-E3 using a Fuji 27mm f2.8 lens or a Fuji 18mm f2 wide-angle lens.

Walkford Brook at Christchurch Bay

I took a train to Hinton Admiral and walked down to the coast at Walkford Brook, which is the county border between Hampshire and Dorset. It was overcast but not cold. A fine day for walking. Good weather had been forecast.

Highcliffe Beach

It was a pleasant, easy walk into Highcliffe where the track becomes a promenade - with lots of beach huts.

The Haven House Inn

After more beach huts and a pleasant detour through the wooded grounds of Highcliffe Castle and then more beach huts I arrived at the Haven House Inn where I stopped for refreshment.

The Ferry to Hengistbury Head

Much refreshed I took the short Ferry ride across the mouth of Christchurch Harbour to Hengistbury Head where I then walked past more beach huts before walking along the edge of the Hengistbury Head Nature Reserve.

Southbourne Beach

After a walk across the heath, the path joined with the promenade along Southbourne Beach.

Bar Bus

Some way along I stopped to rest my feet and refresh myself at this colourful establishment.

Beach Huts

Coming into Bournemouth I couldn't help but notice that there were a lot of beach huts. I notice that some had numbers over a thousand.

Bournemouth Pier.

By the time I got to Bournemouth Pier the weather was getting threatening.

Heading toward Sandbanks.

After resting at Bournemouth I continued on. Beach huts were once again lining the promenade and disappearing into the distance. I knew that there must be over a thousand. I wondered how many? The weather was worsening now. It was still dry but rain was visible in the distance.

Sandbanks.

At Sandbanks the promenade ended because the posh houses and flats are built right up to the beach. The rest of the walk was along the pavements of the road to the ferry. There were a few spots of fine rain falling but they were quickly drying on my clothes. Bad weather was now forecast but I was almost where I wanted to get to.

The Sandbanks Chain Ferry to South Haven Point.

I waited at the ferry point for a number 30 bus which crosses to South Haven Point on the ferry and then on to Swanage. As it drove onto the ferry, the rain started. It took three buses to get home. It rained solidly all the way.

About 18 miles walked. Easy walking all the way. Most of it dry.

Including the 89 miles walked previously on the Dorset SWCP, that's a total of 107 miles walked along the whole Dorset coast.

(I later found out that there are about 2000 beach huts along Poole Bay!m,0)

back to Hampshire Border start

I decided that as I had walked most of the Somerset coast when I walked the SWCP starting at Minehead, I would walk the rest of The coast from Weston Super Mare to Minehead. This would be on the King Charles III England Coast Path.

England Coast Path Weston-Super-Mare to Minehead 2025

Passing through: Brean, Berrow, Burnham-on-Sea, Highbridge, Bridgewater, Hinkley Point, Watchet and Blue Anchor.

Fujifilm X-E3

The photos for this section were taken on a Fujifilm X-E3 with a 27mm lens (35mm equivalent) and an iPhone 16. The iPhone was used for the wide angle shots.

I pre-booked accommodation for three nights and took a bivvy bag, sleeping bag and inflatable mat for the night that I was unable to book.


Weston-Super-Mare Pier	Near Uphill


Burnham-on-Sea Low Lighthouse 1832	The mouth of the River Parrett

Day 1. The King Charles III England Coast Path Starts where the River Severn ends and the Bristol Channel begins at Weston-Super-Mare. It was an April Tuesday, early in the season so there were few people about. The sun was warm but there was a cold wind blowing from the east. I kept my fleece on for most of the day. The walk along Weston beach and Berrow Flats beach was easy on the firm, damp sand. At Burnham the path leaves the beach. Here I stopped for a pint at the Reeds Arms, where, sheltered from the wind, I sat in the sun for a while, before I diverting inland to Highbridge where my accommodation was.

Day 2. Weather the same as yesterday, I walked about 2.5 miles before crossing the River Brue and reaching the mouth of the River Parrett on the Bristol Channel. I looked across to Steart Point, less that half a mile away on the other side of the Parrett. In the distance I could also see the Hinkley power stations, where I intend to be tomorrow night. I then started on the 22 miles or so detour along the wildly meandering banks of the River Parrett and after 11.5 miles I reached the bridge at Bridgwater. I continued on into town to where my accommodation for the night was.


Returning along the Parrett to the Bristol Channel	Low tide on the Bristol Channel at Steart


The remains of Hinkley Point A Nuclear Power Station	The Hinkley Point C nuclear reactors

Day 3. Still sunny and with a cold wind out in the exposed fields, I followed the River Parrett back to the Bristol Channel. At Hinkley Point I knew that the coast path was closed so I followed the designated diversion. I was appalled find myself directed along a very narrow strip of land with long grass hiding the holes in the very uneven ground, with a high fence close on one side and a steep sided water filled ditch dangerously close on the other side. This I walked along very carefully as there was no one else around. Then I crossed the immaculate new road to the site, with fast traffic and white busses passing backwards and forwards every few minutes carrying site workers. Soon the signage pointed me towards rough ground again but this time it was too waterlogged to walk through, so I had to walk on a narrow, uneven grass verge next to the heavy traffic before reaching the safety of a pedestrian pavement. On seeing the immaculate infrastructure for traffic I wondered why a little more care had not been taken to provide and maintain a safe, well-marked diversion for coast path walkers.


Heaps of excavated rock and earth	Sunset over the Channel


Large pebbles on the path	The cliffs near Kilve

As I walked the final mile of the diversion back to the coast I passed by the huge mountains of excavated rock and earth that had been excavated for the new power station, with huge machines on them that looked like tiny toys.

As I was unable to get accommodation for this part of the walk I bivvied for the night in a sheltered spot out of the wind. It was a clear night with an almost full moon but the brighter stars could still be seen. It was cold. I lay there looking at the stars and watching the passing satellites but it was too cold to sleep. So after a few hours I remembered that I had an emergency space-blanket in my rucksack. With this wrapped around me inside my sleeping bag I got warm enough to sleep.

Day 4. I was up and walking along the coast again at 7am.


Ledges of rock on the beach	Watchet Harbour


Approaching Minehead	The start of the SWCP

The coast path is along the beach at St Audrie's Bay and Hellwell Bay so it cannot be used during high tides. There is no alternative safe route for walkers. The tide was low when I walked through. Some ledges and layers of rock have slippery seaweed and rock pools. Some of the layers look as if they are remnants of some huge man-made cobbled road. I had accommodation near Watchet so I got a good nights sleep.

Day 5 was a short walk into Minehead. The hills and cliffs ended just before Blue Anchor and the rest of the walk was easy going along the shore. The clouds had rolled in Before I caught my number 28 bus to Taunton Railway Station I went to see the sculpture at the start of the South West Coast Path. When I first started the SWCP in 1999 there was only a small sign where the path used to start from.

By walking this 70 mile stretch of the England Coast Path I have now walked the coasts of Somerset, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset. Which works out at about 720 miles. Next I will be walking east along the Hampshire coast.

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